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Should I Not Return, by Jeffrey Babcock
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Review
"I saw the mountains where the unchanging sunrise lay."C.S. LewisThe Great Divorce[[ASIN:B00O17LDYU Death on Denali]]This is the first series of words of the paragraph: Death on Denali. This 'link' will bring readers to the companion product associated with my book SHOULD I NOT RETURN that Mr. Dart is referencing in his review, a product that Amazon already carries.This a fit and fine companion to Jeffrey Babcock’s charmer and suspense packed non-fiction novel, Should I Not Return (2012). In fact, the finely tuned and wisely orchestrated telling of the various Denali expeditions in Death on Denali (running time 106 minutes) elicits many a sit down and see as mountaineering tales unfold from multiple angles.There are many layers to ponder in this DVD. Those who are mountaineering history buffs (with an interest in the many attempts to summit Denali) are offered a generous and informed aerial overview of the many attempts, in the early decades of the 20th century, by the dishonest Dr. Cook, the Sourdough Expedition, Brown, Stuck and the formidable Bradford Washburn to summit Denali (some more successful than others). The different routes are highlighted and illustrated in precise detail. The DVD is worth the watching if for no other reason than the early attempts (some more tragic than others) to stand on the South Peak of Denali has its own magnetic attraction.There are others with an abiding interest in understanding why 7 of the 12 on the Wilcox climb died on Denali on July 1967. Jeffrey Babcock, to his meticulous credit, points the way to must read books to get a fix and feel for different interpretive approaches to the 1967 disaster: Snyder (1973), Wilcox (1981), Tabor (2007), Babcock (2012) and Hall (2014)—there is even Sheldon’s Wager in the Wind. The listed books are yet another convincing reason why Death on Denali is a keeper and must see DVD.Death on Denali integrates two successful summit climbs that Jeffrey has made to the roof of McKinley----1967 and 1977. The 1977 expedition (led by Jeffrey) had its own nail biter of a conclusion when, groping in whiteout conditions, Jeffrey managed to find an abandoned igloo high on Denali’s flanks in which the team could find a rest and reprieve from a flailing storm.There is also a more reflective and philosophical tone in the DVD, pointing and hinting towards a deeper spiritual aspect to Death on Denali. There are literal and spiritual mountains, there are literal and spiritual treks and climbs---none can avoid the latter pilgrimage through life. Some of the final reflections, including poignant and evocative insights from a sister of one of the dead climbers go deep and tender.These are but some of the reasons that Death on Denali is a must see and purchase. There are, though, other reasons to delight in the DVD—the visual mountain feast, from different angles, of Denali, bunched up glaciers and deep gorged crevasses, ant like climbers and surrounding mountains---also some of the tidbits and morsels of Alaskan history makes for a generous entrée to mountaineering lore and legend.There is no doubt that Should I Not Return and Death on Denali are hand in glove fits—they belong together and the one without the other is like a right without a left arm, a left without a right leg---in short, much is missing and unbalanced when only one or the other is read, watched and pondered. The creative genius and tale telling beauty of these mountaineering classics should be in the library of anyone minimally concerned with the often complicated yet tantalizing world of mountaineering culture of which Denali has many secrets revealed and yet to be revealed.Ron Dart, Professor / Dept. of Philosophy & Politics, University of Frazer Valley, Abbotsford,BCYou could say that life is all about frontiers. We cross one coming in, another going out, and are shaped by those we cross in between. I crossed a few myself—willingly and otherwise—during my climbs in Alaska. Thus having mountaineered a little and studied it a lot, I know that few books capture such crossings as powerfully as this one.The book’s action takes place in Alaska, which calls itself “the last frontier.” Cavers and astronauts and oceanographers might dispute that claim. But Alaska is undeniably a realm of extremes—biggest, highest, coldest, deadliest. As such, it contains more challenging frontiers within its borders than any other state—and most other places—on earth. Ultimately, that is why we love, hate, and keep coming back to Alaska, despite fervent vows not to at end of our last grueling, tortuous, near-death-experiences trips. Ever, goddamnit.Though a non-Alaskan, John McPhee, wrote the greatest of all books about Alaska— Coming Into the Country . I do believe that only an Alaskan could have written a book like Should I Not Return . Jeff was not born there, true, but our actions define us and, judged by that standard, Jeff is as Alaskan as they come. Thus it is appropriate that he has given us a book about extreme frontiers and their crossings and set in Alaska.Just as Alaska is not your typical state neither is Should I Not Return your typical book. It is an autobiographical novel (or, as the author engagingly calls it, a “nonfiction novel”) about young, callow Henry Locke’s coming of age in the crucible of North America’s worst mountaineering disaster. Though fiction, it hews closely to the truth throughout. The deaths of seven good, young climbers during the 1967 Wilcox Mt. McKinley Expedition form the book’s crucial event, true. But this core tragedy is wrapped within layers of drama—familial dysfunction, alcoholism, sibling rivalry, infidelity, to name a few—that raise this book far above the “me-and Joe-climbed-a-mountain” genre.I once wrote about Mt. McKinley that it was the kind of place from you cannot return unchanged. Some books are like that, too, and I’m pleased to say that this is one.--James M. Tabor , Author of "Forever On the Mountain"Canada celebrated 100 years of formal statehood in 1967, and the same year Canadians were strutting their birthday stuff, a sickening tragedy was occurring on Denali (Mt. McKinley). Should I Not Return has a rather lengthy (almost Victorian Subtitle): ‘The most controversial tragedy in the history of North American mountaineering! An incredible story of survival, danger, and heroism on the icy slopes of Denali--quite a mouthful for an inviting frontispiece introduction with a fine photo of climbers on the snow packed heights of Denali.Should I Not Return is masked realism penned in a fiction form. Many of the names are changed from those on the expedition yet the tale told is true to the reality of the three climbing parties on Denali the year of the seven deaths. Should I Not Return is told from the perspective of those who were climbing Denali, partially assisted in the rescue of those who survived, then continued their ascent to the white packed tower of Denali. The book works at three levels: the tensions that existed in the Babcock group that climbed Denali (and those who descended), the coming of age of Babcock as he climbed his own mountain in maturing from an age of innocence to experience (as he realized the dysfunctional nature of his family) and the controversial nature of the Joe Wilcox party in which seven died on Denali. There has been, naturally, much debate and arrows fired to and fro about whom was responsible for the deaths on Denali, and Babcock tried to be more a mediator in this conflict, and, in many ways, vindicate Wilcox. The publication of Snyder’s The Hall of the Mountain King (1973), Wilcox’s White Winds (1981) and Tabor’s Forever on the Mountain (2007) did much to interpret why the seven deaths occurred on Denali, that Great Grail Castle in the Clouds. Should I Not Return is also a fine primer on the history of various attempts (successful and otherwise) on Denali, and the black-white historic photographs are real charmers and teasers---the sights seen in the photographs are a visual text in themselves that speak much about those who have dared to take to Denali. Should I Not Return is also about Babcock’s return to a primordial and soul changing experience--his life, his brother’s and newly met mountaineers hung by a thin thread for a few fragile days on Denali---those who died and those who survived are branded on the flesh of his memory. Babcock had to return to the memory of what was seen and done, and had he not probed the full meaning of the experience, the consequences could have created another tragedy of a subtler nature. There are 28 chapters plus a prologue and epilogue in this fast paced, vulnerable, multilayered and challenging tale of both a journey inward and outward to the summit of different types of Denali’s-- James Tabor wrote the Foreward. Should I Not Return will walk the reader into the very center and core of the meaning of mountaineering at many levels--do purchase this classic of a dramatic tale that is so well told, it will awaken much that slumbers.Ron Dart, Professor / Dept. of Philosophy & Politics, University of Frazer Valley, Abbotsford, BC
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Review
Should I Not Return is a fascinating story of an old school Alaskan expedition, told by someone who was there. Even more so, it is an insightful coming of age story of a young man wrestling with the family demons from his past and the healing power of adventure in the great white north.The dangers, challenges, beauty, personality clashes, and the ultimate camaraderie of a two-month long expedition come alive; climaxing with the worst mountaineering disaster in North American history. Whether one is an arm chair adventurer, or a grizzled veteran mountaineer, Babcock’s writing and narrative will make this a tough book to put down, and even harder to forget.--Todd Miner, Director of Outdoor Education, Cornell University
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Product details
Perfect Paperback: 256 pages
Publisher: Publication Consultants; First Edition edition (April 1, 2012)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1594332703
ISBN-13: 978-1594332708
Product Dimensions:
6 x 0.6 x 9 inches
Shipping Weight: 15.8 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
3.9 out of 5 stars
44 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#508,940 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
Having read the book on my Kindle, I read it one day. No, it's not a short story, but it's a real page turner and could not put it down for anything. Yes, I knew that Mr. Babcock came back alive and well even after other climbs, I forget how often he went up, because I worked with Jeff at an elementary school in Eagle River, AK. He reviewed some history of the towns around here, I'd forgotten, as I came to AK in 1967 when he was climbing for the first time. I met him years later. I could hear his voice as I read the pages of the book. Photos on Kindle were a bit small for my old eyes, so a magnifying glass helped. Learning how Mr. B. learned about himself, finding his strength in fighting his demons. Yes I do believe that at times on the Mountain there were supernatural events taking place that defy explanation and do I believe that God can and will intervene? YOU BETCHA I do. This is more than climbing a mountain.. I want to read it many more times and highly recommend it, even if you aren't into climbing mountains. Thank you Mr. Babcock.
I must confess that I haven't read very many books about climbing expeditions, I prefer to live the experiences. My climbing mentors are from the "Golden Age of Climbing", names like Charles Houston, Bradford Washburn, Adams Carter, and all too often modern climbing literature has been sensationalized or is written by professional climbers to help pay for their profession. Though sometimes these books can be exciting to read, they are more on the edges of the foundation that these early climbers established. This book is not one of these...I came across the book "Should I Not Return" quite by accident while researching a planned trip to the Liberty Ridge on Rainier. What caught my eye was that Jeff Babcock was doing a show at the REI in Seattle a week after I was scheduled to leave. Though I didn't make the show, I remembered the name from a trip that I was on back in 1977, my very first expedition, which happened to be up the West Buttress of Denali.We were the first team on the mountain from the west and Jeff's team was on the opposite side following the same path as the first 2 early ascents that occurred in 1910 and 1913.On this expedition we crossed paths probably without meeting. My team had split up due to cold injuries and AMS (It turns out that Garnet Roehm helped me get two injured members of the original team back to the high camp safely from Denali pass. Thank you, Garnet! I will forever be grateful to you for this!), and found myself at 17000 ft with two people from another expedition that had also been fragmented. One of these two people was a very good igloo builder. The three of us ended up building a small igloo that was our home for several days while we did our summit bid. The day we returned from the summit, Jeff's team had made it over the top from the other side of Denali pass and was camped with us but I don't recall that Jeff was among them. He was probably on his North summit bid at that time.The weather was beginning to change for the worse, and the three of us decided to make our way (crawl) back to the 14000 ft camp in very serious winds. They increased at least 2 fold and they made a constant sound like a jet engine on afterburners roaring up above. This tremendous storm was with us for days.It turns out that this little igloo became part of Jeff's (and Garnet's) story as well as my own. I can only imagine what it was like for them up there at 17000 ft!When you pick up a copy of this book you immediately realize that this is not just another climbing book. Flipping through the pages one will find pictures of famous climbers, family portraits, and individual family members which do not often appear in many climbing books, along with numerous historical references, maps and web links.The book has 4 dimensions. At it's root is a historical reference with notes, footnotes, (pictures, maps, and web links).It also contains a documentary, the timeline of events that brought about one of the greatest tragedies that has ever occurred on Denali.Then there is the (not so) "fictional" story that interweaves through these paths to allow the reader a different perspective of history than has been written before. Similar to an abstract painting of a real subject but the artist choose to blur the lines and colors to allow each observer a different perspective through imagination.And finally there is the actual story of the author and his brother which is overseeing and present, keeping things "real".Together, this in itself makes for a very gripping read. But one would have missed a very important aspect of this work without reflecting upon the author's attempt to explore climbing from the primal motivations deep in the soul built upon relationships that we have experienced throughout our lives then moving outward to the physical, and even beyond to the metaphysical.Not only do these experiences, emotions, relationships, memories contribute to our passions but they also contribute to our abilities to survive our passions.I sometimes tell people that the climb actually starts when the idea pops into your head and you begin your preparations which can start many months before you actually set foot on the mountain. This book shows that the climb actually starts much further back, indeed all the way back to one's youth. The work gives you a glimpse into your soul where our collective demons lurk which we attempt to suppress by overwhelming our senses in the frozen world of the Icefield Ranges in the Yukon, or on Alaska's glacial regions, or on Denali.It takes you outward, to reality, where your next step may land you deep in a crevasse or a fall down a steep slope. Then beyond to the spirits of the climbers before you in the golden age, that lay down the footsteps on the path that you may be following.Several years after leaving Alaska I moved to Vermont, and I would occasionally visit with Charlie Houston at his home in Burlington which was not far from me at the time. On one of these visits he told me that the very best writing comes from the heart. When something is written from the heart the actual words fall away but the true meaning shines through and prevails. Charlie lived by these rules, in the books that he wrote and the ones written about him.This book was also written from the heart.Thank you Jeff, for sharing your experiences, your stories, and your history with us and allowing us to return to this incredible place with you!
I enjoy reading books about mountain climbing (I will never make it to the top of Denali or even the14ers). I picked this one because I live in Alaska and am familiar with the layout of the mountain and Denali national park. It was a good story with lots of details about the mountain and the climbing routes. It is based on a true story, but is fiction. I found that very confusing, because the "fiction" is interspersed with "real" photos of the author and his family and photos from real excursions on the mountain. I had trouble figuring out what was real and what was fiction. Although I enjoyed it, I would have rather seen it be all non-fiction or all fiction, or perhaps a separate section for each.I would also like to see a map with all the places mentioned in the book. Some of the landmarks and routes are overlayed on pictures, but I had a hard time visualizing some of them.Should I not Return is good read, but not a classic like those by the likes of Eric Shipton or Jon Krakauer.
I think this book would have benefitted from more structuring and revisions. I absolutely love climbing books, but here, I couldn't get past what seemed to be a self-aggrandizing, self-vindicating voice. The author may well be nice, humble guy, but if so, the editor failed to step in and make sure those qualities came through. Climbers are an interesting breed and their stories are often great reads, but this one felt like a slog. I suggest reading a sample before buying; if one likes just ten pages, one might like the whole thing.
I'm not sure what happened here, but this book could have definitely benefited from an editor. I read Forever on the Mountain and was so engrossed in the story I couldn't wait to read other accounts of this fascinating tragedy. However, when I received the book I was baffled to find that the first two chapters' pages were completely out of order, some missing entirely, and the entire first chapter was printed upside-down. It was missing too many pages to be understood, so I skipped the first two and went from there. The book itself is interesting, though personally I would have preferred a first person perspective, the author uses some creative liberty to change names (his own?) and details that I thought detracted from the book.
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